Festive foods from afar can balance tradition and health
By Lucien Chauvin, ·¬ÇÑÊÓƵ News
Immigrants in the United States often share stories about their grandmothers preparing food for the holidays. It could be an abuela in Mexico baking bread for Día de los Muertos, a bubbe making kugel for Hanukkah, a nani in India making sweets for Diwali or a nonna in Italy making Christmas cookies.
These foods and many others traditionally reserved for festive events – from high holidays to weddings – can become part of regular diets in immigrant communities in the U.S. Health researchers and practitioners say that while this is positive for maintaining cultural heritage, it's not so much for staying healthy.
The goal is to strike a balance between tradition and health, experts say. This includes controlling what and how much is consumed and getting back to the heart of celebrations, which should be centered on people, not food.
"Festive foods are traditionally consumed during special celebrations and holidays in many cultures. In the context of immigration, festive foods can become part of regular diets rather than being reserved for special occasions," said Dr. Latha Palaniappan, co-founder of the Stanford Center for Asian Health Research and Education in California.
Her has examined the links between disease and overconsumption of festival foods in the immigrant diet.
"The shift from occasional to regular consumption of these rich, often calorie-dense dishes, which are high in carbohydrates, fats and sugars, can contribute to health risks like diabetes, cardiovascular disease and obesity," Palaniappan said.
Research shows an among Asian populations, she said, despite efforts to educate people about the risks created by eating refined carbohydrates, sugary sweets and fried foods.
"Practitioners want to respect cultural traditions and promote the healthy consumption of festive food, so we should focus on moderation, suggesting that these dishes be reserved for special occasions as they were traditionally intended, so more like once a year as opposed to once a week or daily," she said.
The upcoming holidays lend themselves to overindulgence. The 2024 holiday season kicks off Nov. 1, when calendars coincide around the feasts of Diwali for Indians and the two-day Día de los Muertos for Mexicans and other Latin Americans. From then, it is only a short skip to Thanksgiving in the U.S., then Christmas and Hanukkah, which also coincide this year.
Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is well known in the United States, and Diwali is growing in stature thanks in part to the size of the Mexican and Indian immigrant populations, two of the country's largest. According to of census data published by the Pew Research Center in September, 23% of immigrants in the U.S. in 2022 were born in Mexico. The next largest group – at 6% – came from India.
Dr. Sandra Soto, an assistant professor in the School of Nursing and Thurston Arthritis Research Center at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, said festive and traditional foods are neither good nor bad, per se, but it depends on the frequency and how they are consumed. These foods evoke culture and tradition, which can lead to overindulgence, she said. The important thing is to strike a balance for healthy eating.
"One of the things is the way we eat in other cultures," she said. "In my (Colombian) culture, you are expected to eat what is in front of you. You might be full, but you are only done eating when your plate is clean. This is a huge issue because it does not matter how healthy a food might be; it is not healthy to eat too much of it."
Soto, whose work focuses on osteoarthritis and the social influences of physical activity and dietary intake among Hispanic people, said another key element is that celebrations, like Día de los Muertos or Diwali, are about family and gathering, not just food.
"These celebrations have shifted to be about food, but really the focus is around the people, families, friends and neighbors. We need to bring celebrations back to family and friends. Food is important, but it does not have to be the central element. You can enjoy it and not have to eat everything," she said.
Soto and other researchers also stressed the need to incorporate exercise into holiday routines as another way of being social. Her family goes for a hike as part of big days, like Thanksgiving.
"When we mention exercise, people think going to the gym or running a marathon, but it really is about moving your body. Walking is my favorite recommendation," said Soto, who has written about programs that promote physical activity.
Dr. Sonia Vega-López, a professor of nutrition in the College of Health Solutions at Arizona State University in Phoenix, said the approach should not be about people depriving themselves of what is deeply rooted in culture, but about adopting strategies that make what they consume healthier.
One message, she said, should focus on reducing added sugars. "I think that this is perhaps one of the most urgent messages for all communities, not only Hispanic communities," said Vega-López, whose research focuses on diet and lifestyle to reduce chronic disease risk factors among Hispanic populations.
She said her research with Hispanic families has shown their interest in returning to traditional ways of cooking.
"People recognize that there are positive ways of cooking in Hispanic culture with dishes rich in vegetables. It brings back memories of what their grandmother used to make," Vega-López said.
Palaniappan has been working to make sure traditions are kept alive but in a healthier manner. Her program has prepared a cookbook with healthier but still traditional Indian recipes that reduce the amount of fat, salt and sugar. This goes hand in hand with lessons on portion control and exercise, which can lower blood sugar.
"These are strategies that can help people celebrate cultural events while maintaining their focus on health, hopefully year-round," Palaniappan said.